超火的球鞋转卖市场Sneaker Con

原文:想知道球鞋转卖市场有多火?8万人挤进了这个展会

Sneaker Con 始于 2009 年,由一直和球鞋有千丝万缕的关系的 Yu-Ming Wu 创立。诞生在 Yu-Ming Wu 手上的项目都发展得不错。最初,他创办了 Sneaker News 网站,主要写一写 Nike, adidas, Jordan 和 New Balance 等各种球鞋的信息。在这个网站信息变得精细有杂志的风范之后,他在 2015 年成立了一个球鞋精品网站 Stadium Goods,售卖“每一款都可以和艺术品媲美的球鞋”。

如今,球鞋文化正当红,这些炙手可热的球鞋变得和奢侈品包包一样,成为一种投资品一样的存在。球鞋成为了一种炒货现象,这个市场已经发展了 30 年,最初还是一种地下文化, 起源于一小部分人对球鞋的爱。但现在,全球二手球鞋市场总价值超过 10 亿美元, 2015 年有超过 900 万双鞋在美国被转手出售。

“全国球鞋日是一年一度为了庆祝人人都爱的鞋子,那就是球鞋。这是每个人的节日,在美国 50 个州里最随意的消费者到最严肃的买家,大家在这里来庆祝和展示球鞋,也为了促进交流和更滋养这种文化。来参加吧,就简单穿上你最喜欢的球鞋,然后同这个世界分享。” Sneaker Con 的官方网站上写道。

去年,YU-MING-WU 还成立了一个叫 The Consignment Shop 的商店,还在天猫上卖过一单。他还计划继续在中国扩展生意,他认为中国不断壮大的中产阶级对时尚和运动趋之若鹜,他们也有这个消费能力。“这是球鞋狂热分子增速最快的地方,你想想,那里的年轻人都想在美国找灵感。” 他说。

“当我刚开始做这个展的时候,Adidas 球鞋的比例只占到我们供货商的数量的 1%,现在我认为有 25% ,或者 35%。” YU-MING-WU 在展会还没开始之前就断言说,“今年在我们的展会上,一定会见到很多的 Adidas ,特别是椰子鞋和 NMD。”

Timberland的大黄靴是如何变成一个经典文化符号的

原文:HOW THE TIMBERLAND BOOT BECAME A CULTURAL ICON

追根溯源的正统历史请点击原文。

我对大黄靴的感情是从读大学那会开始的,大概是00年,喜欢上了hiphop和饶舌音乐,mv里rapper门基本上都是穿的各种颜色版本的大黄靴(10061)。可惜当时没有网络购物,Timberland也没有专卖店,记得为了能买到一双哪怕差不多样的黄靴,我还跑去过武汉著名的汉正街,最终也未能得尝意愿。

工作后有了淘宝,就方便了,Timberland当时的鞋子都是在大陆代工,淘宝上真假都有,不过我有个好朋友有很厉害的鉴别能力,在他的帮助下发现了一些卖样品鞋的店,先后买过一双低帮的黄靴和6寸的黑色靴,价格都是惊人的低。

后来这位朋友在eastbay也买过几双不同款式,我却没有从正规渠道再买过Timberland,倒是给我媳妇买过一双,最近降温,她又给翻了出来,昨天还抱怨穿着开车累😓。

五个感恩节促销,有你喜欢的Mr.Poter,Ralph Lauren,Brooks Brothers

原文:Five More Black Friday Sales

Mr. Poter包含的workwear,casualwear品牌最多,J.M. Weston,Edward Green,Viberg等鞋子都有不等折扣。

Brooks Brothers的OCBD接近历史低价,4 for $199。

Ralph Lauren的鞋子,配件,以及6折的RRL和Purple Label lines。

LL Bean所有东西八折加送10刀券,白天还在跟朋友商量要不要买对6寸bean boots。

SSENSE的Common Projects的Trainer都有折扣

穿汗衫是个好习惯,可这3个理由告诉你不该让它秀出存在感

原文:Should Your Undershirt Show? | 3 Reasons Your Undershirt Shouldn’t Show

1,避免领部露出白色的倒三角,这样会破坏视线

解决方案是穿V领汗衫

2,错误的尺码会导致难看的堆积

太紧的话穿着不舒服,太大的话会在袖笼和腰间产生难看的堆积

3,错误的颜色会透到衬衫外面来

理想中的汗衫,应该是配合肤色的颜色,不然哪怕你传白色,也会从衬衫外看到汗衫的边缘

一个日本设计师打理的Techwear品牌Battenwear发布了2016秋冬lookbook

原文:Battenwear Fall/Winter 2016 Lookbook

Soft, fuzzy, grainy, gritty; it’s the Battenwear Fall 2016 lookbook. The New York City based brand toes the line between urban and the outdoors. Their latest collection is made of earth tones – cream, tan, olive, hunter green, navy; and many varied textures – corduroy, synthetic pile, flannel, fleece, melton wool, and even shiny polyester.

  • 下面第一张的绿色套头防水夹克几乎每一季都可以看到,橙色和橄榄绿有点成了Battenwear主题颜色的感觉。
  • 13年我曾翻译过一篇访谈,有兴趣可以跳到StyleClan去看看

battenwear的设计师采访engineered garments的设计师daiki suzuki

有意思的是,采访人shiya hasegawa,batten的主脑,曾经是suzuki在给woolrich woolen mills做设计师时的助手,或者说同事,这段2人的对话,基本上全面的阐述了eg的设计概念,以及suzuki如何设计和运作这个品牌以及他的灵感来源。

Styleforum成员日报,Rais的功能性服装(Techwear)

原文:Member Focus: Techwear with Rais | The Styleforum Journal

原文可以点击链接过去看Rais的自述,styleforum对他的评价如下:

@Rais is a well-known streetwear poster for a reason. He’s the resident master of futuristic techwear; taking inspiration from speculative fiction, film, and his own environment. The subject of many admiring Blade Runner jokes, Rais excels at styling avant-garde designers with readily-available brands, and putting his own out-of-time stamp on the results. Here, he talks about what directs his buying and styling.

Everything here is from Nike, save the pants.

This look is comprised of a Lanvin linen jacket, Yves Saint Laurent cotton shirt, Prada silk tie and Jean Paul Gaultier polyester-blend trousers.

The polyamide bomber from H&M was RIT dyed and the collar and cuffs were cut off and left raw. The light olive tee is from Cotton-On in their “Other Crew” cut and the jogger pants were bought in Namdaemun market in South Korea. The slip-on sneakers are from Muji.

除了中间的那套Lanvin+Yves Saint Laurent+Prada, Rais还是强调他更喜欢“comfortable, disposable and practical looks from inexpensive and readily-available pieces ”。

关于毛边脚口的牛仔裤

大概13年吧,当时特别喜欢的一位dandy,Epaulet的Matt,就有一条(或几条)毛边的牛仔裤,经常上镜,刚从Tumblr随便翻了一张,裤脚长度,毛边的程度都恰到好处。关于Matt,我翻译过采访他的一篇访谈,不学无术穷小子一枚,之前是干仓库操作工之类的体力活,但不妨碍他在男装方面拥有过人天赋,有兴趣可以去styleclan翻翻那篇帖子。

Mr Porter5天前浓墨重彩的发了一篇文章(教程),详细聊了一下毛边牛仔裤。开头就是耸人听闻的微信公众号体:

In 2016, apparently, if your jeans aren’t almost completely destroyed – as in hanging off your knees by a thread or two – you need to rethink your wardrobe.

接着叽里呱啦引用了一些设计师的鬼话。不多说,“怎么做”和“别怎么做”还是有点借鉴价值:

DO

Bother to DIY:

Walk into your nearest high-street chain today, and expect to see rows of neatly pre-frayed jeans. A good frayed hem is a little bit scraggly, a little messy, a little bit punk. Do it properly yourself, for goodness’ sake.

Get your lengths right:

Frays might be back, but three-quarter-length trousers are not. In the rare chance you actually want to look like you’ve borrowed your nephew’s jeans, stop reading now. For the rest of you: make sure your shoe-to-frayed-hem distance is no more than two inches.

Use the right tools:

Tool-up, or your foray into the fray is going to sting. Find yourself a sharp pair of scissors, a ruler and a stick of chalk. Measure the distance you want from heel to hem, and mark your new hemline. Cut with precision – there’s nothing more distracting or embarrassing than someone who has noticeably self-frayed. Avoid this by sticking to long continuous cuts along a straight line. If you want to get the frays going, pick some out with tweezers – but don’t get too excited (see below).

DON’T

Go over the top with fray lengths:

You want people to be able to see your frays, but you don’t want people to be scared by them. Avoid turning your hems into wispy spider legs by pulling gently at three or four freshly frayed threads until they dangle down an inch or so.

Fray everything you own:

Don’t harvest your entire jeans collection; save a few pairs for stand-up meetings and wakes. Also, avoid fraying off-piste: frayed denim jacket collars, yes; frayed ties, hats, waistcoats etc, no.

Bother fraying super-skinny jeans:

Afford your frays a flappable amount of room around the leg: after all, you want people to be able to notice them. Don’t mix old and new trends by hacking off the ankle-clamping hems of your super-skinnys.

American Apparel申请二次破产并被收购

上周在好奇心日报看到以下消息,令人唏嘘不已,Gildan的CEO决定在收购完成后继续保留AA的品牌,不过会利用Gildan遍布全球的生产网络把大部分AA的产品线移到亚洲,中南美地区生产。

我们不用太担心AA的品质会下降,毕竟之前在加州估计也是亚洲大妈在生产,反倒是Gildan是Under Armour的供应商,如此看来未必是一件坏事。

继今年 2 月暂时脱离破产保护,美国青少年服饰品牌 American Apparel 再次申请破产,并且和一家加拿大服装公司达成了初步协议,把自己的品牌及其他资产以 6600 万美金卖给它。

这个价格未免让人有点唏嘘,在 10 年前的巅峰时期,American Apparel 的市值超过 5 亿美元。

它由加拿大人 Dov Charney 创立于 1989 年,最初只有批发整销业务,它的工厂为许多乐队生产纪念版 T 恤。2003 年后才进入零售行业。2005 年,因为复古潮服的市场营销和定位,其销售额增长高达 440% 至 2.1 亿元美金,是当年增速最快的公司之一。

它也由此成为了大热的美国青少年服饰品牌之一。

但在 2008 年金融危机后就开始一蹶不振了,因为经营不善和库存挤压,从 2009 年就一直处于亏损中。

随后, American Apparel 一直丑闻不断,其创始人 Dov Charney 被公司雇员指控性侵,还爆出挪用公款的丑闻。员工经常抗议集会、与劳工组织之间的纷争和充满争议的“软色情广告”让品牌形象大打折扣。另外,自创始人兼前 CEO Dov Charney 2014 年末被“赶出公司”后到现在,American Apparel 换了两个 CEO,内部损耗也很严重。

尽管从 2010 年起就开始陆续关闭经营不善的店铺,但同店销售依旧在下降,业绩也没有任何好转的迹象。2013 年开始现金流出现问题,需要借债运营。目前账面上仍然有 2.15 亿美元的欠债。

……

这家有购买意愿的加拿大公司叫 Gildan Activewear (以下简称 Gildan),总部位于加拿大蒙特利尔,它既是代工厂(比如说它是 Under Armour 在美国袜子产品的生产商),也有几个自有品牌(Gildan, Gold Toe 和 Anvil 等),在全球有超过 4 万名员工,公司估值为 79 亿美元。

目前为止还继续支持Trump的品牌和商店

原文:A List of Brands and Stores That Still Support Trump

  • 还记得前两周互联网上声势浩大的#扔掉NB鞋 的运动吗,现在演变成#GrabYourWallet了
  • 文中提到了川普大女儿Ivanka的服饰品牌去年营收有一亿美金,这女人有总统相,难怪他老爸现在出席各种活动都带着她跟她老公,大有为她政治道路做铺垫的意思
  • 下面列出的多是超市和商场,也有6pm和Zappos这样我们熟悉的网店
  • 利益相关:我是川粉,我不喜欢NB

Companies to Boycott

6pm – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Amazon – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Belk (Southeastern Chain) – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Bellacor – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Bloomingdale’s – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Bluefly – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Bon-Ton – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Bed Bath & Beyond – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Burlington Coat Factory – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Carson’s – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Century 21 Dept. Store (NY, NJ, PA) – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Dillards – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

DSW – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Hudson Bay – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

HSN – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Jet – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Lord & Taylor – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Macy’s – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Marshalls – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Neiman Marcus – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Nordstrom – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Overstock – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Perfumania – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Scion Hotels – Trump-Owned, Branded, or Operated Business

Saks Off Fifth – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Stein Mart – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

TJ Maxx – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Trump Golf Courses – Trump-Owned, Branded, or Operated Business

Trump Hotels – Trump-Owned, Branded, or Operated Business

Trump Winery – Trump-Owned, Branded, or Operated Business

Wayfair – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Zappos – Retailer that Does Business w/ Trump Family

Additional Companies to Consider Boycotting

ABC Supply – CEO raised funds for Trump

Forbes – CEO supports Trump

Hobby Lobby – Endorsed Trump

Jenny Craig – Board member Jenny Craig raised funds for Trump

Kushner Properties – Owner Jared Kushner led Trump’s campaign

MillerCoors – CEO raised funds for Trump

NASCAR – CEO Endorsed Trump

New Balance – Vice President expressed public support for Donald Trump

National Enquirer – Media outlet that endorsed Trump & prevented negative news about Trump from being released

People Magazine – Media outlet that is normalizing Trump

Uline – CEO raised funds for Trump

Ultimate Fighting Championship – President endsorsed Trump

Yuengling Beer – Founder endorsed Trump