播客推荐 Blamo! 以及最新一期,采访Michael Hainey

Blamo!是一档以时尚(男装)和科技为主题的播客(podcast),主持人每周都会邀请一位嘉宾来聊聊他的职业生涯和着装方面的一些经历。

最新一期邀请的是Michael Hainey,我本人非常喜欢的一个icon,他是Esquire和GQ杂志的主编,抱歉没有读过他的文章,不过他的outfit实在令我印象深刻。

你可以通过iPhone自带的Podcasts应用或者其他泛用型播客客户端来搜索并收听Blamo!节目,后续我也会推荐更多男装有关的播客给大家。

“The acquisition of goods simply for style… it’s just never seemed interesting to me. And yet I love fashion and I love style… to see the creativity of that? It’s amazing. Fantastic.”

–Michael Hainey, Executive Director of Editorial at Esquire, on personal style on Jeremy Kirkland’s Blamo! podcast.

美国的男装博主来到了伦敦,然后他碰见了Kent Wang

原文:The Style of Two Cities

我在论坛里贴过好几次Ethan W.的博文,最近他跟家人在英国旅游,自然借这个机会,Ethan拜访了很多男装爱好者和业内人士,点击原文可以看到整个文章。或许你会发现很多熟面孔。

节选styleforum的红人和合作伙伴,男装网店老板Kent Wang的这段分享给大家,

他的这套泡泡纱也是美国范儿十足。

Who would have thought that legendary designer Kent Wang would be located in London?  Certainly not me; Kent went to university in Texas, worked in IT, and began his online-only business shortly after. Because he sources and sells all over the world, there isn’t really any reason for him to stay in the US.  He tells me that he’s been in London for the past four years!

Even though he showed me a quaint bar in London and ordered some English cuisine, his outfit screamed American prep to me.  The combination of light blue shirt, traditional seer sucker suit, and light brown penny loafers is pretty darn great.  It’s also pretty impressive to be wearing everything you designed yourself.

不同社会属性服饰的消亡-如今的我们穿的越来越平庸

原文:The Death of Social Club Clothing

不谈中国,上一代人的穿着是很能代表自己的身份,族群,喜欢的音乐甚至信仰,你可以从一个人的衣着轻易的看出他是一个punk,嬉皮士,或是飙车族。

然而现如今,几乎所有年轻人都是紧身牛仔裤搭配t恤或衬衣,每个人看起来都那么大同小异。

卫报之前发过一篇文章,表明这种现象可能跟现在的年轻人更注重他们在网络上的形象有关,谁知道呢,反正现在的人穿衣是越来越无趣了。

现任掌门讲述Crockett & Jones是如何成为英产固特异鞋牌中的巨人的

原文:HOW CROCKETT & JONES BECAME A SHOEMAKING GIANT

  •  1977年Mr. Jonathn Jones接手这个百年家族老店的时候,C&J已然风雨飘渺,同行们有的退出,有的勉强维持。
  • 小Jones决定坚持走传统工艺路线,在强化自有品牌的同时,也给当时如日中天的Ralph Lauren代工英产鞋产品线。我认为寥寥几笔带过的这一段才是他们发家的契机。
  • 从二战前一直继承下来的制鞋工艺是他们赢得顾客认可的关键之一。
  • 一双好鞋有3个要素,皮质,做工,和鞋楦。
  • C&J的定位完全反映了掌门的目标:the best top-end English dress shoes you can wish for at a reasonable price

J.Crew特别在哪里?

原文:Why J. Crew is Special

最近,在Jcrew工作了26年的现任总裁兼创意总监Jenna Lyons,宣布将在今年底合同到期后离开Jcrew。

这并不是Jcrew最近几年的唯一坏消息,结合到他们持续下降的销售额和债务危机,2018年甚至都有倒闭的可能。

作者分析到这跟近几年Americana风格的减退,运动风盛行有关。另外它这个价位的品牌们,都被快速消费以及highend品牌蚕食殆尽,像Ralph Lauren,A&F, American Apperal,最近几年的日子都不好过。

然而J.Crew依旧是$50 – $500之间为数不多可选择品牌中的最佳选择之一。

Will you step out of a J. Crew store looking like the most stylish person on the planet? Nope. But will you step out being better dressed than most people, without necessarily spending a fortune? Absolutely.

Styleforum街头自曝帖的常客Frank Cowperwood

原文:Member Focus: Frank Cowperwood

和很多人一样,这位老兄在网上搜集所有关于Alden鞋的信息,找到了Styleforum,然后就入坑了,特别是看了WAYWT(what are you wearing today)帖子后,更加的一发不可收拾,还特地采购了新的相机,开始拍摄并上传自己的搭配。

Frank的装备全是典型的美式工装风格,他也表示自己绝不会搭配一双球鞋。

PUT this ON对几个主要男装论坛,博客的描述

原文:Q and Answer: Where Can I Get Good Advice on Men’s Style?

这是一篇很有意思的给读者的回信,除了Style Forum,PTO还一一概述了AAAC(Ask Andy About Clothes),SF(SuperFuture)论坛,以及The London Lounge这样的知名博客的特点,生动,准确,有趣。

比如在提到Reddit的MFA(male fashion advice)时,“along with some good advice there’s some, uhm, less good advice”。

There are other clothing fora out there. Ask Andy About Clothes is generally a more positive place than Style Forum, but it also has a more conservative, traditional aesthetic. It’s also full of great people and information, but caters to an older, more classic American crowd, rather than the sharper Italianate and British-inspired looks you’ll see on Style Forum. The London Lounge is pretty amazing, but it focuses on bespoke clothing, which I’m guessing you’re not in the market for. The Fedora Lounge has some interesting information on hats and vintage clothes, but it also has a lot of… cosplayers. Reddit has a Fashion Advice forum, but along with some good advice there’s some, uhm, less good advice. SuperFuture has a lot of brand fetishists and tight-pants wearers, but it can be a valuable resource, especially for denim.

当然,文中也提到了我很喜欢的An Affordable Wardrobe。

PS:配图引用项目管理的三要素原理,你在建立你的衣橱时,三者只能取其二,比如我这种愿意花时间和精力在衣服上面的,才能有可能挑到good和cheap的东西。

Allen Edmonds被收购了,买家是个卖女鞋的公司

原文:Allen Edmonds Bought by Caleres

Allen Edmonds一直是高性价比男鞋的代表品牌,最近以2亿5500万美金被Caleres收购,Caleres是一家专注于女鞋品牌的公司。

鉴于广大粉丝对于品牌前景的担忧,CEO Paul Grangaard最近在As Andy About Clothes论坛做了以下表述:

“Our strategies will stay the same but grow, and the team is all staying in place. Caleres bought us because of what we could do with them, not what they could do to us…So the changes you’ll see will be those of intensifying who we are and what we do in good ways — more marketing and customer development because of their longer term time horizon.

基本上母公司不会过多干涉AE,反而会共享双方的资源。不过未来AE还是有扩大市场的计划。