Saint Crispins 的“工作靴”

原文:WORK BOOTS BY SAINT CRISPINS
有哪位“工人”谁会花1k-2k美刀去消费一双Saint Crispins 的工作靴?
The Shoe Snob的博主给了一个合理的解释-“for just a normal, say construction job,where you are the boss or do less of the labor and more of the leadership role”
看来是给山西煤老板或者地产公司老总下工地考察时穿的。不过如果你是一个工作靴狂热爱好者,这样一双MTO的挪威缝顶级工艺皮靴,来上一两对,也不算很过份,对吧。

日本制的橡胶底帆布雨鞋,L.L. Bean duck boot的高阶版本?

日本的Moonstar成立于1870年代,主要产品是日式矿工鞋,虽然是低价帆布鞋,这家公司还是有他们独到的生产工艺-鞋子都会经过烘烤。

这双‘All-Weather Sneaker’胶底帆布鞋和它的同类们-Keds,Chuck Taylors,Van's-有着完全不一样的外观,更靠近duck boots,不过要精细很多,可以算是duck boots的城市进阶板。

想要一双全天候帆布雨鞋,又不想跟别人一样穿duck boots,可以试试看,我喜欢第一双白蓝配色。
superdenim有售,232.83美金。









如何用体恤衫搭配你的定制夹克?

原文:When Can You Wear a Tailored Jacket with a Tshirt?
我们经常可以在电视上看见明星们用体恤衫搭配西装夹克,不过那些设计师品牌的RTW夹克,和Tee在一起并不怎么合称。如果你有定制夹克,或者一些没有内衬,偏休闲的便装西服,可以试试看,这里有些rules,看起来并没有什么新奇的观点。

  • Like shorts, this is not likely good for the office, unless you have a pretty slack dress code and understanding coworkers. In most offices a tshirt isn’t acceptable, and wearing a tshirt AND a jacket calls attention to itself, something that may or may not be a good move at work.
  • The rules of wearing casual tailoring well apply. A jacket with a lot of structure or sharp angles is better matched with similarly formal shirts and accessories–now is the time for the softer, less severe tailoring that’s become more broadly available over the last few years, or a jacket with no internal structure at all, like an Engineered Garments jacket or this shirt jacket. It doesn’t need to be super trim, though–one of the bonuses of wearing a tshirt is comfort so no sense in wearing a jacket you can barely button.
  • Pick a decent shirt. We love a basic tshirt but there are creative options out there that can work better in this context, mostly distinguished by fabric. A linen blend shirt, a terry shirt, a henley, or a stripe detail or breton type shirt all make some sense. Neckline also matters–a standard crewneck will fit close to the neck and look a little cleaner (and will be a little easier to wear); a looser neck (but no deep Vs!) might look a little more current.
  • Consider casual footwear. Yes, oxfords are for suits, derbies for sportcoats, but if you’re wearing a tshirt with your suit, you’re probably not trying to keep the spirit of Apparel Arts alive. In these situations, a very casual shoe, like a desert boot, Doc Marten-style chunky oxford, or even sneakers or slipons can work better than technically appropriate shoes.
  • To tuck or not to tuck? Part of deciding whether to tuck in your tshirt is the length and cut of the shirt. You don’t likely want a tshirt that’s so long it reaches the hem of your jacket; if that’s the case you may need to tuck or at least fold under the hem of the shirt a bit. Although it’s gotten a lot of attention this summer, I’m still not on board with the full tshirt tuck. But don’t get too fussy about it–again the point here is casualness.







金科玉律?牛津鞋配正式套装,德比配休闲外套

原文:Oxfords for Suits; Derbies for Sport Coats
首先,第一张是牛津皮鞋,第二张是德比,我自己来说,一般穿套装机会比较少,到搭配西裤时我都会穿牛津皮鞋,但穿休闲一点的chinos和牛仔裤,我并不介意到底是牛津还是德比皮鞋。
就好比下面这位大叔,翻皮的牛津鞋,和毛呢外套也非常合拍。


周末了,来一波Steve Mcqueen 的靓照吧

图片来自于Voxsatoria的汤不热
周末愉快,祝你跟Steve一样帅。
London, 1963.

Steve McQueen.

The Lure Of Velour.

Steve McQueen.

Le Mans, 1970.

Steve McQueen.

Donegal Tweed Season Is Coming.

Steve McQueen, 1965.

Tattersall Of 1968.

Steve McQueen.

Mr. Crown.

Steve McQueen, 1968.

Athleisure Days.

Steve McQueen.

Still By Hand 连帽套头外套

原文:Still By Hand Hooded Tops
Well Spent的推荐总能让人惊喜,好比这件日本产的连帽套头外套。
作者Nick Grant说这件衣服让他想到了那首Magnolia 饶舌歌曲里的歌词-“In New York, I milly rock / Hide it in my sock / Running from an opp / In my hooded top.” 可这件的风格跟嘻哈音乐可完全不搭,当然,现在rapper们的穿衣风格也很多样化。
总之今天这件很有让我下单的冲动,模特身上的米色兼职太是我的菜,6折后153英镑,我要好好考虑下。



END.针对哥本哈根时装周上期间几个最棒的街拍搭配提供了解决方案

原文:CHECK OUT SOME OF THE BEST STYLE FROM COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
虽然是一次蹭热点营销,不过几张图片里的每种风格,都有着北欧人独特的诠释方式,比如这张红蓝黑的运动系,

比如这张普通的Barbour搭配牛仔裤,整体气氛就很不一样,有点赛博朋克的感觉,

当然少不了以下这样典型的北欧风格搭配,END.推荐的自家产品,也是以North Projects为主,

这双用Horween皮革的手工定制皮靴,卖的比Red Wing还便宜

这双用Horween皮革的手工定制皮靴,卖的比Red Wing还便宜

原文:[First Impressions] John Doe Horween Chromexcel Roughout Boots
Reddit上经常有人尝鲜小鞋厂,这次又是一家手工看起来很不错的牌子,完全定制化,Horween翻皮,价格比一双正价Red Wing还要便宜,以下是定制清单,具体流程可以看原文。

Brand: John Doe Shoes
Model: Natural Roughout
Last: ???
Style: 420 Captoe
Leather: Horween Chromexcel Roughout
Sole: Studded rubber
Welt: Goodyear Welt
Size: 8.5D
Lining: Calfskin(?) lining
Other notes: Pull-tab, EVA cushioning, steel shank (according to the website)
Price: $219

一个神奇的打造高腰裤的办法

原文:The Awesomeness of High-Waisted Trousers

为什么说打造,而不是购买,或定制呢?

因为我们的Ethan W. 先生开创了一条极具想象力而又被他验证可行的办法,让你很容易得到合身满意的高腰裤。

高腰裤的趋势和优点不必多说,之前论坛也有帖子讨论,我收藏过一些像包括putthison汇总的购买指南,其实都只有寥寥数个品牌的很少的裤型可以谈得上是高腰裤,而走定制路线又不是那么亲民,此处Ethan采取了曲线救国的办法,具体如下,

You see what I mean?  Right now, you’re probably liking the look but you probably don’t have the thousands of dollars to buy those handmade garments. That’s okay, because there’s another way to get them! Just get a waist size bigger and pant size longer than what you’re used to, and BAM! High waisted trousers.

精不惊喜,意不意外?是的,言简意赅的说就是买大一号腰围和裤长,然后把它改到适合你的腰围和粗细,这样前后门襟都是更大一号,自然就是高腰了。

原文里有丰富的图片和详细文字说明,回帖讨论也有聊到如何实际操作。值得细细阅读。

五条可以适配你的粗壮大腿的牛仔裤

原文:5 Best Jeans for Men with Big Thighs

话不多说,5个选择来自styleforum的官方博客,如下

One of the most common questions that is asked on the forum – alongside “Where can I buy Common Projects on sale?” – is “How do I clothe my athletic thighs with denim?”  It seems that, while malls across America are well-equipped to outfit the girthier amongst us and fashion brands like Saint Laurent Paris can clothe kale-eating hordes of models, there is a dearth of denim choices for the mesomorphs in our midst: those who begin and end each day with a strong dose of creatine, and whose Instagrams and Snapchats are riddled with words such as “swole” and “gainz.”  Styleforum, alway inclusive, is happy to present the 5 best jeans for men with big thighs: powerlifters, strongman competitors, or those who aspire to be Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson (or just want a pair of jeans with some room in the thigh).

1 Jeanshop  “Rocker”, $260 at www.jeanshop.com I’ve visited the flagship Jean Shop store in lower Manhattan, and like many stores who can trace their genesis to the mid-noughties, it looks like ye olde general store, with a lot of wood and wrought iron. The brand is famous for its thick leather jackets (which I once coveted as a broke postdoctoral scholar), and of course for its jeans, which are topstitched with a distinctive orange thread.  The owner of Jean Shop, Eric Goldstein, is a big guy (in one conversation with him he told me that he was “not a small guy,” and the cut of his earliest models reflect his understanding that big guys like to wear nice jeans too.  The Rocker cut is a straight legged model with ample room through the seat, thighs, and legs.

2 RRL straight fit denim –  $275 at www.ralphlauren.com Possibly the most comfortable jeans that I own are a pair of 15 ounce straight fit selvedge jeans from RRL.  The denim is washed, and so there is very little break-in time required, which means that even though they have the look of dark denim, they don’t have the stiffness that often accompanies “raw,” a.k.a unwashed, jeans.  A lot of guys talk about the thighs on their jeans being restrictive, but if you are doing squats, you are probably going to want some extra room in the seat – which these offer. Ralph Lauren is a billion dollar company, and with that much money, you can afford to hire good pattern makers.  This pair of jeans shows that.

3 Naked and Famous Easy Guys, in black for $170 at East Dane One of the most popular styles of jeans right now is a tapered black jean, and this is a relaxed fit pair that tapers down to a neat hem. Naked and Famous, hailing out of Montreal, is the brainchild of Brandon Svarc and is known for putting out crazy denim blends.  It’s been a while since I’ve run into him, but he always has a demonstration set up at trade shows – a pair of jean that stand up by themselves, or a pair of jeans in tricolor (all blended into the yarn), or whatever else comes to his mind that season.  Behind all of the theater, though, is a family of jean styles designed so that everyone can wear a pair.  The Easy Guy is the high end denim answer to those Wrangler jeans commercials, in which guys are playing football in jeans. Why you would want to do that is beyond me – it’s easy enough to tuck away a pair of technical fiber pants or training pants.  That said, if you are drawn into that madness, the Easy Guy will carry you through. 

4 Japan Blue High tapered $127 at www.denimio.com The “carrot” shape is very in fashion right now, but it can be hard for bigger guys to fit into typical carrot jeans.  However, Japan Bue developed  their high tapered cut specifically for lifters – apparently being swole has caught on in Japan as well. The jeans feature a higher rise, generous seat and thighs, and a very deep taper. They come in a variety of denim types and weights, from the standard 14.5 ounce denim (linked) show below to a beefy 18 ounce “monster” denim.  

5 Levi’s 541, 50$-70$ at Levis.com These jeans really don’t require that much explanation.  They are Levi’s standard “athletic cut” and meant for men who need, or just want, jeans that hit at the waist, have a bit more room in the seat and thighs, and have a whisper of a taper.  These are jeans with no time for nonsense.